Noor | An ode to filigree
Posted on February 20 2019
When celestial strings of light are twirled and twisted to adorn a canvas of colours, Noor is born. This spring, AM:PM brings to you a celebration of everything divine, everything Noor.
The incandescent luminescence is aptly depicted in the collection, which embodies fresh radiance unbound.
Seeing it, one can feel the fulfilment of a promise, an eternal hope that the arrival of spring brings with it; the time of reaping a sweet harvest after waiting through a long cold winter. It represents a rebirth, quintessence of new life, like dancing glow in the first dewdrops of the dawn.
The collection’s muse, light, metamorphoses itself into different art forms and colours used in the making of the collection.
Taking inspiration from the art of filigree, which originated from the cradle of civilization, Mesopotamia, the collection employs techniques that beautifully blend embellishments antique into cloth contemporary. Throughout the 2500 BC, the appeal of filigree jewellery spilled over to the Asian continent, ending up influencing Indian art in jewellery making in many ways. Celebrating the telkari, that is, filigree using golden silver wires, Noor is an Indian tribute to craftsmen of Midyat city in Mardin province of upper Mesopotamia.
The collection uses motifs and shapes from both Indian and Greek filigree art, which in reality hold great resemblance due to the similar patterns and processes followed in ancient times, for creating filigree jewellery in both the countries. While between 1660 and the late 19th century, Italian and French metalwork was influenced by this art form, it seems the cuts and falls used in the collection might have been stimulated from contemporary Italian cuts.
The artistic study of shape and shadow, reflection and colour that creates a filigree-inspired print and embroidery. The shadows creating unimaginable silhouettes, muting the bright colours by just the right degree.
Techniques ranging from sewing metallic sequence to screen printing, either one or both are used to enhance the gorgeous silhouettes of filigree. The use of embroidery and lose white lines appear to add another dimension to the articles. The colour combination of black and white and red and white used on some of the articles seems to have a resemblance to colour schemes that are widely used in traditional arts of the eastern states of India.
This collection is a consequence of a fulfilled vow to infuse freshness of spring and the dynamism of summer. Noor signifies the classic AM: PM characteristic of the style that is effortlessly elegant and fierce confidence. Each haloed piece teams up with another in spreading grandiose out into the infinity.